Nine places to eat in Nice 🇫🇷
My favorite spots for crêpes, dinner dates, brunch & more
Hey there, it’s been a while! I’ve greatly missed writing this newsletter and connecting with you all. Despite my long absence, 20+ new subscribers joined me in May. Welcome!
To say thanks for sticking around, I thought I’d send you a practical edition that might serve you or loved ones traveling to the Côte d'Azur this summer or might make you start planning a trip for September (a great month to visit).
This is not a guide to the “best” places to eat in Nice – I’m claiming to be a resident, not a restaurant critic. This is, however, my carefully curated list of spots I return to again and again because they meet my simple yet exacting criteria for a good meal: delicious food, fast and friendly service, and reasonable prices. If a place falls short in any one of these areas, it doesn't make the cut!
In no particular order, here are nine great places to eat while you’re in Nice:
1. Crêperie Le Trimaran
No trip to France is complete without a good crêpe, and no trip to Nice is complete without a visit to Crêperie Le Trimaran. Tucked beneath an archway in the Old Town with outdoor-only seating next to the pungent St. Francois fish market (but don’t worry, the fishmongers usually pack up before noon), the crêperie is my go-to spot for a light lunch. But here’s the real secret – Le Trimaran offers a wonderful deal: One savory buckwheat crêpe – technically called a galette – with your choice of egg, ham, cheese, or ratatouille (my favorite) plus a sweet crêpe with dark chocolate sauce, homemade lemon curd, Nutella, or jam.
2. Lou Colonial
When I lived in the Old Town, I could barely be persuaded to eat dinner anywhere but Lou Colonial. This Vietnamese-French fusion restaurant might surprise you – not with tiny gastronomic works of art, but with heaping quantities of saucy noodles, a creamy Asian risotto, or a classic magret de canard with homemade fries. Treat yourself to the Toblerone banana for dessert, and I promise you’ll leave stuffed and very, very satisfied. Plus, the atmosphere is cozy while still classy enough to make you feel like you’re out on the town after a long day at the beach. Reservations recommended!
3. Indian Curry & Tandoori
After moving out of the Old Town, I got an apartment on Boulevard Gambetta, a tree-lined, residential street full of little shops, bakeries, and restaurants. Locals and tourists agree that it’s a lovely neighborhood to stay in. Once I got settled here, a neighbor told me that Indian Curry & Tandoori was the best restaurant on the street – she was right. Recently I sat next to a couple from Liguria who said they regularly come to Nice and eat here every time. We agreed that the staff is always so kind, the cheese naan is like a hug, and no matter what you order, you can’t go wrong. I’ve brought vegetarians, meat-eaters, children, my parents, and my grandmother to eat here and all mentioned it as a highlight of their time in Nice.
4. La Boulangerie Par Michel Fiori
On a rainy Sunday in January, we invited a few friends to our new place for a housewarming party, and Mia and Fabien brought us champagne and a flan. But it wasn’t your typical sunny yellow flan that can be found in just about any French bakery. This one was off-white with a dark, caramelized top and flecks of fresh vanilla bean. It was topped with raspberry coulis.
All the guests implored Mia and Fabien: Where did you find this flan!
They shrugged. “It was just a random bakery by our apartment that was open on a Sunday!”
The mystery remained unsolved for many months, until one recent morning when I was searching for breakfast on a side street not far from the train station. There are a million flans in Nice, but when I saw this one, I knew it was the one I had eaten in January. I later discovered that Michel Fiori has made flan his signature pastry, as evidenced by the display case in the front of the store with flavors like tiramisu, pistachio, cheesecake, and black sesame. And once you see how flaky and oversized the croissants are, I’m sure you’ll leave with more than just flan.
5. Oceanosa
My husband Mohamed and I run a company together, and we feel it’s only right that the partners should get together every so often for a business meeting – which means getting sushi at Oceanosa. Everything is super fresh and tasty and there are plenty of creative special rolls to choose from. Plus the upstairs dining room is cozy in the winter and there’s outdoor seating for the warmer months.
6. Garden Cafe
In New York or Nice, brunch is expensive, and I find that weird for a meal consisting mainly of eggs and bread. And so many brunch restaurants are just OK! Garden Cafe solves both those problems with its generous menu options consisting of salmon and avocado toasts, stuffed croissants, decadent pancakes, gourmet yogurt, eggs, and fluffy brioche French toast. Seating is both cute and limited so get there before 10 a.m. or you’ll be waiting in a line that snakes down the block for the rest of the day.
7. Pera Kebab
Whether you need a late-night bite after dancing in the bars or a quick picnic lunch to take to Castle Hill, Pera is a great choice. Located right in the heart of the Old Town, it’s a kebab take-out that doubles as a casual restaurant. For my vegetarian friends, I recently ordered the veggie kebab with grilled eggplant and cauliflower, and I was not disappointed. Here’s a tip for Pera or any kebab shop – if onions are your thing, ask for your sandwich with sauce algérienne, a spicy French favorite that most visitors haven’t heard of.
8. Ikko Ramen
It may be June, but the weather has been unusually spring-like here in Nice – and I say all the better to eat ramen! Ikko Ramen’s Abuli and Karamiso recipes are on par with the ramen I ate in Japan – and so much better than what you’ll typically find in France. On cooler days a line usually forms for lunch and dinner so if you don’t mind a bit of perspiration, go when it’s warm! I recently wrote about interviewing Ikko and how he’s dedicated his life to the art of ramen.
9. Le Barbecue
When I lived in the Old Town, Le Barbecue, a Portuguese restaurant with terraced seating on a steep side street, was my favorite place to go with friends. Start the meal with vinho verde, literally “green wine” and a flaming sausage charred right at the table, both sure to please a crowd. Then order the platter of marinated, roast chicken with potatoes and peppers – deceptively simple but so delicious you’ll be happy to eat the leftovers for lunch the following day.
Now, dear reader, I need your help. Whenever I ask my French friends what they want to eat for dinner, 90 percent of the time the answer is Italian. And yet, I can’t recommend an Italian restaurant in Nice. Of the ones I’ve tried, the worst have been overpriced tourist traps, and the best have been mediocre compared to what you’ll find 40 minutes down the road in Italy. I’m sure that great Italian food exists in Nice, I just don’t know where to find it. So, have you been to an exceptional Italian restaurant in Nice or the surrounding area? Let me know in the comments!
Beautiful photos! Haven't been to Nice in forever. Would love to return.
Well you certainly have jogged my memory! It is just over 11 years since we visited Nice and my only regret is that we didn’t have nearly enough time to discover the place properly. We did visit the Old Town and had lunch somewhere near the Creperie, I can’t remember what we ate, but I do remember the Arch and also the wonderful fresh food market. After returning to Cannes we went for a walk along rue Le Suquet. The Cannes film festival was about to start in a few days, so thankful our ship berthed before the crowds arrived, although they may have already been there secreted in some of the fabulous hotels, or basking in the sun or under one of the numerous beach umbrellas.